Souper Delicious
Hot Spots for Soup
When the weather turns brisk and a cool crispness fills the air, Floridians trade flip flops and tees for sweatshirts and socks, light the fireplace and begin dreaming of nourishing, hearty food like a simmering bowl of soup. What do we love so much about soup? “It’s primal and soul-satisfying,” says Judy Staunko of Spice Routes in St. Petersburg. “It’s the first thing mom gives you when you’re sick,” says Ilya Goldberg, of The Stone Soup Company in Ybor City. Soup is all of that and more—a soothing food to turn to or simply a delight.
Hot, cold, spicy, mild, creamy, chowders, gumbos, broths, bisques, chili’s and stews—soup comes in all flavors and styles; as creative and complex or as simple as you want. Here are some great places in Tampa Bay to satisfy your craving for soup this winter.
WOODY’S
SOUTH TAMPA—Danielle Ward is in charge now, but she took over from her father, Woody Gilbert, who opened Woody’s in 1972. This small family owned restaurant is one of those out-of-the-way landmarks where everything is fresh and flavorful, especially the homemade soup. Their motto is “not frozen, not canned, no preservatives, not even close.” Even the herbs used to flavor the soups are organic. Woody’s Soup Collection is extensive, ranging from standards like Classic Chicken Noodle to the exotic Pagoda made with butternut squash, carrots, sweet potatoes, cilantro, tomatoes and cabbage, and Country Greek with tomatoes, fresh garlic, dry sherry, spices and feta.
www.woodysofsouthtampa.comSPICE ROUTES
ST. PETERSBURG—Soups are a specialty at Spice Routes, which has a commitment to global soul food—“those things that taste of home to people from all over the world,” says Judy Staunko, who is also a co-founder of St. Petersburg’s Saturday Morning Market. Her Mayan Pumpkin and Corn Soup marries chicken broth, cream, coconut milk, pumpkin, corn, honey, turmeric and a touch of habanero peppers for a bit of kick. The down home Chicken and Dumplings is popular, too, and so is Judy’s Dad’s favorite—Green Bean, Ham and Potato, a very thick and homey soup, made with “potlikker” the liquid that remains at the bottom after cooking down the vegetables and meat. “Every culture has always put together whatever is plentiful to make soups and stews that are comforting and yummy,” she says.
www.spiceroutes.comTHE STONE SOUP COMPANY
YBOR CITY—Ilya Goldberg has been cooking for as long as he can remember, but he says his inspiration for his restaurant came from the hilarious Seinfeld episode “The Soup Nazi.” Ilya’s love for sauces, soups and good food are showcased at this small, Ybor gem. Some of his most sought-after soups include the creamy Lobster Bisque, which is more like a chowder with a hearty base that includes lobster, crawfish and shrimp; Thai Chicken Laksa made with a spicy coconut and green curry-based broth and chicken; and Steak and Potato Soup with mushrooms, slowly cooked beef steak and vegetables. In a salute to Ilya’s native Belarus, the menu also includes KGB Borscht, the classic Russian beet soup. Stone Soup has a philanthropic side—regular donations of soup are made to local charities.
www.stonesoupco.comELLA’S AMERICAN FOLK ART CAFÉ
SEMINOLE HEIGHTS—It’s not surprising that Executive Chef Suzanne’s Curried Apple and Carrot Bisque has been on the menu from day one at this quaint Seminole cafe. Just a listing of the ingredients—sautéed carrots, Dijon mustard, fresh ginger, house-made vegetable stock, heavy whipping cream, brown sugar, Indian curry powder, Granny Smith apples, onions and seasonings—is enough to set your imagination on fire. Other popular soups, says Suzanne, include her Parmesan Cream Broth, which is topped with organic watercress and Tomato Bisque made with fresh basil and marjoram, gorgonzola cheese and a garlic crostini. For a little extra heat try the Pollo Diablo, a blend of chicken, tequila and black beans in a spicy broth.
www.ellasfolkartcafe.com
B&G’S SOUP STOP
SARASOTA—Brent and Esther Williams offer at least nine soups every day at B&G’s Soup Stop, a unique concept they opened two years ago as an extension of their Gordon’s Catering business. “This is the place for soup,” says Brent, who makes everything fresh and buys local produce. The Soup Stop is primarily take-out with just a handful of tables. In addition to old stand-bys like American Lentil, Split Pea and Ham and Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken and Corn, Brent’s creativity can be seen in his Cream of Five Onion, in which he combines scallions, leeks, shallots and both red and white onions in a rich, creamy broth, garnished with crumbled French’s fried onions. OOH. Another must try is the creamy Seafood Chowder with scallops and rock shrimp.
www.sarasotasoupstop.comSAVANNAH’S
DOWNTOWN ST. PETERSBURG—“A lot of people say the chef is portrayed in the soup,” says Savannah’s Executive Chef Sal. “It gives us the chance to be creative.” The soup at Savannah’s is a collaboration of everyone in the kitchen, says Sal. And that gives them a chance to use up everything on hand so there is no waste. Savannah’s theme is refined Southern but the soups are international, such as Caribbean Roasted Chicken with Jamaican jerk, allspice, chili peppers, ginger, garlic, mango puree, chicken stock and chunks of chicken—an intriguing blend of sweetness and spice. A seasonal favorite is the Sweet Potato and Apple with pureed sweet potatoes and Granny Smith apples, chicken stock, garlic and onions, a little bit of cinnamon and a dollop of sour cream on top.
About JANAN TALAFER
FRESH
DOWNTOWN TAMPA—Right in the heart of downtown Tampa on Franklin Street, a terrific new restaurant has opened with a distinctive menu that includes a cereal bar, salad bar, Panini press and soup kettle. It’s a very trendy, cool place to hang out for everyone from business professionals to tourists and ladies who lunch. The soup stocks are made fresh and the menu changes daily. At the first hint of a chill in the air, soup lovers were delighted to find a selection of hearty favorites: Tomato Bisque, Lobster Bisque, Italian Wedding Soup made with tiny meatballs, spinach, carrots and pasta in a delicious broth served with parmesan cheese, and the wonderfully named “Day After Thanksgiving” Chowder, which combines turkey, carrots, mushrooms and celery in a turkey broth.
www.eatfreshdaily.comFRENCHY’S
CLEARWATER BEACH—This is the quintessential beach restaurant—the perfect casual hang out to meet with friends for rum drinks, sunsets and fried seafood. There are four locations, all a short drive from each other: Frenchy’s Original, Rockaway Grill, Saltwater Café and South Beach Café, and all within the Clearwater Beach area. There is only one soup on the menu and it’s a long-standing tradition. No, it’s not the typical New England Clam Chowder—rather She Crab Soup is the star here, made rich and creamy and swimming with crab meat. It’s a specialty of the South Carolina low country, a Charleston delicacy said to be the improvisation of a Mr. Deas, who “dressed up” a local specialty in preparation for a visit from President Howard Taft. That was in 1912 and the soup has been popular ever since.
www.frenchysonline.com
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